Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their younger generation are unwilling to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to explore these tales and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.